Description: Cockatiels are native to the semi-arid regions of Australia. This open environment might be a reason why cockatiels don’t have the ear-piercing screech of parrots originating from dense rain-forest habitats. Wild cockatiels fly to the ground to forage for food. Cockatiels readily breed in the wild, and they are also easy to breed in captivity, which makes them widely available as pets at a lower cost than most other parrot species. Wild cockatiels are always on alert for predators and are light sleepers. A pet cockatiel might have an occasional night-fright episode, where it thrashes around the cage at night as if startled. You can help your cockatiel find its way back to its perch by leaving a night light on in its room.

The position of a cockatiels crest feathers can tell you its mood. Straight-up crest feathers can mean the bird is startled or highly curious. A defensive cockatiel will hold its crest feathers flattened close its head, and it might be especially stressed if it also hisses. A relaxed cockatiel will have slightly held back crest feathers, as well as fluffed cheek feathers and you might also hear it contently grinding its beak. Toys designed to be destroyed by small beaks are perfect for cockatiels and include pieces of paper, cardboard of soft wood or non-toxic rawhide to chew up. Cockatiels also like toys with hard-plastic elements, such as beads to fiddle with. Male cockatiels often seek out mirrors and other reflective items to whistle to. A cockatiel might be inclined to fly down from its cage or playgym onto the floor, so be extra cautious whenever your bird is out of the cage so you don’t step on it and that other pets, such as cats or dogs, cannot get to it. A female cockatiel might seek out a dark, enclosed area to nest in, such the corner of a cabinet or behind furniture (even if there is no male cockatiel present), so keep these areas off limits. Cockatiels can be taught to whistle back to you on cue but generally aren’t known for their trained tricks.
  • Temperament icon Active, Friendly
  • Tamedicon Non Tamed
  • Maximum Weight0.25 Kg
  • Maximum Height6 Inches
  • Avg Life Expetency12 Years
  • Relatively quiet bird. Better known for whistling ability than for talking.
  • Cockatiels that are parent-raised, but also exposed to regular human handling through weaning, grow to be tamer and better adjusted than those that are entirely handfed or parent-raised.
  • Tamed birds readily adapt to new surroundings and activities – expose early to daily activities in your household as well as to other pets
  • Are intelligent, curious, and easily amused with simple toys. They love to explore their surroundings
  • Cockatiels are very social and require regular interaction with people in order to satisfy their sociable nature.
  • Cockatiels may bond with humans, cage mates, toys, or other cage furnishings. Courtship, mating behavior and egg-laying commonly result.
  • Foraging stations, puzzle-feeders, and “busy” toys provide necessary environmental enrichment and reduce the chance of feather picking, aggression, or other problems
  • Birds with unrestricted access in the home will encounter numerous dangers: drowning, toxin ingestion, electrocution, injuries, etc. Cockatiels should be confined to their cage or housed in a “bird friendly” safe room when not under direct supervision.
  • Seeds are high in fat and low in many essential nutrients. When offered a seed mixture, cockatiels usually chose the seeds with the highest fat content, and selectively pick those from the mix.
  • “Vitamin enriched” seeds have a coating on the hulls, which is usually discarded by the bird.
  • Formulated diets, on the other hand, are complete. Each pellet contains balanced nutrition, preventing a bird from feeding selectively.
  • Cockatiels should be fed a diet consisting of 70-80% formulated pellets
  • Dark green vegetables or fruits can be 10-30% of diet
  • Treats (including seeds) should be limited to only 5% of the diet
  • Clean, fresh water should be provided daily
  • Enclosures should be as large as possible, with the bird able to fully extend it’s wings and flap without touching the sides of the enclosure
  • Cage should be clean, secure, safe and constructed of durable, non-toxic materials, with perches of various sizes
  • Avoid placing perches directly over food or water to prevent contamination
  • Access to natural light is preferred, drafty areas should be avoided.
  • Some birds will require a night light in order to prevent episodes of “night fright” – frantic flapping and vocalization that can occur without provocation
  • Birds outside of cages need constant supervision to avoid access to other pets, small children, and hazards in the home.
  • Physical examination every 6-12 months
  • Consult a veterinarian with experience in avian medicine if you have any questions or concerns about your bird’s health.
  • Annual fecal examination for parasites, yeast, and bacteria
  • Vaccination for Polyomavirus, as directed by your veterinarian
  • Blood work annually, as directed by your veterinarian
  • Wing or nail trimming as needed
  • Obstetrical problems (excessive egg-laying, egg-binding, egg-related peritonitis, yolk emboli)
  • Liver disease
  • Kidney disease
  • Internal parasites
  • Bacterial and yeast infections
  • Obesity
  • Feather picking
  • Broken blood feathers




  • the vet i got my pet treated from handled him with so much care and love . thnx for creating such a

  •  fully satisfied with the services provided, true to what they say .

  • they not only provide healthy pets but also take care of other necessities to them. and, i'm very ha

  •  i don't remember the last time i encountered a website that went the extra mile for the sake o

  • I just want to thank you very much for everything. You and your team are wonderful.